Go wild in secret

Marjorie Yue 11/11/2007

The Maharaj's Palace, Mysore, India (Alamy)

As I rummaged in my purse for a coin, the elephant 's trunk was waving around impatiently in the air in anticipation of a rupee.

When I found the money, her trunk swept it up, removed it deftly from my palm and dropped it in the tin beside her.

This happens throughout the day as tourists queue up for a blessing from elephant at the Krishna temple in Udupi.

However, after handing over my rupee, the 'blessing' she bestowed on me came as a shock as she thwacked her trunk smartly on my head, showing her irritation at my slowness in giving her the coin.

Worried she might hold this against me and recalling that elephants reputedly have long memories I dashed to the nearest fruit stall to buy a bunch of bananas.

Apprehensively I presented them to her and with one gulp they disappeared as swiftly as hopefully I found myself back in favour. Slowly she flapped her enormous ears as in thanks. I was redeemed.

Elephants play a major part of life in Karnataka in southern India, a region only recently opening up to western tourists.

But this area rich in culture and wildlife is now opening up to tourists keen to discover about the way of life and learn how these magnificent creatures are being saved.

Asian elephants are a top priority for conservationists now anxious at their dwindling numbers. Several projects have opened up in the last few years and play an important role in this part of India as concerns grows for their survival. Formerly, elephants were free to role outside villages and take their feed from trees and shrubland. Now this has all changed as land has been cultivated for crops and woodlands and the elephant increasingly finds it difficult to survive. Raids on villages has resulted in deaths as locals battle to keep their crops intact.

At Nagarhole National Park, rich in wildlfe, we saw more of the Asiatic elephants, along with gaur, the largest wild cattle in the world - some can weight up to a ton.

Residing high up in the trees the malabar squirrels - giants compared to our little red squirrel - were delicately plucking off flower blossoms to munch on. It was wonderful to see the peacocks in their native habitat alongside our track - their plumage shimmering in the dappled sunlight.

And every now and then the cheeky langur monkeys would entertain us with their comical antics, swinging from tree to tree.

What we were really hoping to spot was a Bengal tiger but we were out of luck. We had to content ourselves with finding a tiger paw print in the mud - that was going to be the closest we would get to a sighting!

We even tried to spot tigers from elephant-back but still had no success. This involved clambering aboard our stately elephant, Mary, for a quite magical and incredibly safe ride as we strolled quietly through the jungle and along woodland tracks for about an hour.

But realistically the chances of trying to spot one of the elusive tigers or getting anywhere close to one were virtually nil - not surprising considering tiger numbers are so drastically down.

Still I was quite relieved that we we didn't get as close as one of the locals who entranced us with the story of the time when hearing the rumour a tiger was in the vicinity, he prodded bushes near his village and succeeded in flushing out the animal. The tiger, taken unawares simply leapt out and over him, running away into the distance. Fortunate not have ended up as the tiger's main course, he had been dining out on that tale for months.

At Orange County coffee plantation in Coorg (also known as Kodagu), in the Western Ghats which is open to visitors, we learned the extent of the intelligence - and the breathtaking ingenuity - of the wild elephants. Regularly storming their way into fields the wily beasts test electrified fences installed to keep them out, with wet leaves before knocking them with tree trunks. Even resorting to digging man-made troughs isn't a deterent. They simply pack in enough earth to enable them to cross over to the tempting feast of greenery.

By the time we had our next encounter with the elephants at Dubare Camp my respect and awe of these fascinating animals had grown immensely. This important camp for retired elephants is located near Madikeri in the Kodagu District of Karnataka.

It was bathtime for the residents before they could have their supper. When an invitation was extended to help wash the elephants, we didn't need to be asked twice. Rolling up sleeves and trousers we waded out into the river Cauvery to help the mahouts and started scrubbing up behind their ears, giving back rubs and splashing water over them as they lay contentedly in the water revelling in the pampering. Meal time followed with millet cooked in large cauldron pots before being fashioned into huge porridge style balls. Scooping one up and I decided to engage a shot put action to aim toward her mouth and tossed it in - the ball disappeared in a trice, then her mouth was open again, waiting for her dessert. Meanwhile a baby elephant was playing in the water, paddling around and happily splashing her mum, clearly not hungry enough to join the others for supper.

At the famous temples of Belur and Halebeedu, near Hassan city, the elephant figures amongst animals intricately carved out of soapstone vying for attention amongst the voluptuous, dancing female shapes. We noticed cooked rice was scattered on the paved stones in front of the temple at Belur - food put there by the priests to feed the sleek black ravens who soon appeared for their meal.

Belur was the first capital of the Hoysala rulers, originally hill peoples of Malnad Karnataka, and the temple, built on a complex star-shape platform dates back to the 12th century.

For more culture we toured Mysore's Maharaja's Palace where were greeted at the entrance by a massive snarling tiger sculpture bearing a strong message 'Do not touch me' a timely reminder of the plight of the tiger in India. This fairytale Raj Palace completed in 1912, was the home to the 24th Maharaja Wadiya Raja and the spectacular setting for large house parties which went on for days. His throne of 280kg of glittering Karnatakan gold was an unbelievable sight gleaming in all its glory. Other furniture treasures are now in glass cases carefully preserved for visitors.

This area of India is no Goa - everything is emerging slowly but over the years will be able to offer the visitor a real insight into this lesser known state.

And though I may not have managed a glimpse of a tiger I had got up close and personal to another magnificent creature and just like those amazing elephants it will be an encounter I won't forget.

WHAT'S THE DEAL?

Avion Holidays specialises in holidays in the Indian Ocean region and tailor-made holidays throughout India. Fully guided tours in Karnataka start at £1,200 per person, based on two sharing and including flights, transfers and breakfast. The 12-night Deccan Dreams - Four States of Mind tour costs from £1,500 per person. All tours can be extended to include a beach holiday in neighbouring Goa or another tour. Call 0870 835 4531 for a brochure or go to www.avionholidays.co.uk.

TIPS BOX:

*Allow plenty of time to obtain your Indian visas. Currently postal applications are not being accepted so be prepared for long queues. Visit www.hcilondon.net for more information.

*Anti-malarial tablets must be taken. Also check with your GP what other inoculations are recommended.

*Drink only bottled water and check the cap is sealed before opening it. Avoid salads. Lime and soda water is a refreshing drink on those really hot days as is coconut milk straight from the shell.

*Stock up on spices from local grocery shops. At the Coorg Plantation you can buy fresh coffee as well as spices grown there, such as vanilla, black pepper and cinnamon.

*Mysore silk is known for its quality and well worth buying a length to bring home.

*Pashminas make good prezzies.